Ancient Volcanos

Last Friday we picked up the hire car that we will have for a month and headed cross country (north-east) into the Massif-Central, the very heart of France.

Our destination was Clermont-Ferrand (capital of Auvergne) although our primary aim was to see the Puy de Dome, a dormant volcano 10 kms from Clermont-Ferrand.

Many years ago, Dale saw some pictures of the Puy de Dome in a French text book and has wanted to visit ever since.  Our interest has continued to grow, fed by Anthony and Dennis’ grand tales of adventure when they visited a few years back.  Their story includes impending darkness, inclement weather and a dangerous path, but that it was all worthwhile for the views and the subsequent hearty dinner in a nearby small village. All the ingredients for memorable travel experiences in central France!

We made it to Clermont-Ferrand in early afternoon, in time to drop off our luggage at our hotel and be at the trail head of the Sentier des muletiers (the path leading to the summit) by 3pm.  We were not concerned about losing daylight but it was pretty cold and overcast, although not raining.

The walk is strenuously uphill and it takes at least 45 minutes.  We could have taken a little train but why would we want to do that?  Along the way you get magnificent views of some of the other dormant volcanoes in the region, known as the Chaine des Puys, and some of the surrounding countryside.  

A long chain of extinct volcanos run to the north and south

The grassy verge of the Puy de Dome falls away sharply to the distant rolling forest below

In the past the Puy de Dome has featured in the Tour de France and at the top there is a communications station and the reconstructed remains of a Roman Temple to Mercury.  It seems that the Puy de Dome was an important place for spiritual ceremonies for both the Gauls and the Romans.

You can also do a round circuit at the top that affords the most wonderful 360-degree views of the surrounding area, much of which is a plain on the Massif Central.  It is indeed a very impressive natural feature that is well worth visiting.

Ruins too ruined?  No problem, rebuilt it just a little bit

In the far distance you can see Clermont-Ferrand

Clermont-Ferrand is a neat and pretty town that is apparently one of the oldest in France.  I was very excited to learn that a hill overlooking the town was where (experts think) the Gauls, led by Vercingetorix, defeated Julius Ceaser in 52 BC.  I had just finished listening to a podcast about the Roman conquest of Gaul.  It goes without saying that despite this victory, things didn’t end well for the Gauls.  Nevertheless, they still celebrate Vercingetorix in Clermont-Ferrand.  There’s even a car park named after him (and to be fair - a pretty big statue).

A blackened gothic cathedral dominates the Clermont-Ferrand skyline.  The interior felt unusually more open than most churches in this part of the world.  It reminded me of the feeling of the openness of a mosque, although I’m not sure that this comparison would be welcomed by the parishioners.  And to be fair, it was still pretty dark – and cold!  On that note, our hosts in Beaune (where we are currently) say that Clermont-Ferrand is the coldest place in France and that it’s cold there when the rest of France is warm.  It certainly was cold there but I have to say that it’s been pretty damn cold in Beaune too.  But more of that in the next post.

The Puy de Dome dominates the horizon from Clermont-Ferrand

And the 'Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption of Clermont-Ferrand' sits in the middle of the town like a sinister castle from a Grimm's fairytale

Enormous scale